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LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 5.16 79 masters making it all," Jonathan, 27, says, "but right now (here) it's just one dude making them, so we have to make this and freeze it, make this and freeze it. It's as good as it gets for being in the country, I guess, compared to California." (Nothing like being called "the country" to defate a foodie town's ego.) Entrées are sharable too, particularly the Hong Kong roasted duck, available half ($9.50) or whole ($18). Jonathan and Bai He mash up spices such as salt, sugar and cinnamon, and stuf the mixture in the duck, sew it back up using a needle and then cook it. Te result is a favor-rich bird juicy enough to cause a food coma. Other items include wok-seared whole founder ($11), fresh shrimp sautéed with glazed pecans ($12) and curry dishes ($9.50) — which difer from the soupy coconut-milk versions found in Vietnam- ese or Tai places — with a combination of spices that are hard to pick out indi- vidually. Tey've recently started selling whole pigs, prepared much the same way as the duck but on a larger scale. Given the appearance of the exterior, the interior doesn't surprise. Te decor may be the closest thing to China you'll see in Louisville apart from perhaps an Actors Teatre set. Gilt dragons and patterns cover the walls. Te tile ceiling almost goes unnoticed with lanterns hanging from it. Te charm is somewhat negated by the fat-screen TVs with manic news programming, which seem to have become a trend in Asian restaurants. At Oriental House, you won't fnd a cleverly named cocktail, but the full bar with the basics satisfes those weary of beer-only spots. Jonathan estimates that at least 50 per- cent of the customers are regulars. Even if you arrive early for dinner at, say, 6 p.m., you may have to wait a few minutes for a table to free up. Te busiest days, Jon- athan says, are Tanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day. "Tere's a huge wait — 45 minutes to an hour. People are like, 'Why's it taking so long?' Tey're mad," he says. "And then the next year they come again." stmatthewsstreetfestival.com