Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.
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food & A number of restaurants have rotated through the basement of Actors Theatre. And prior to MilkWood, food passed through the space in a curious way: out of the kitchen, past the hostess station and under the noses of guests waiting for a table. So during construction, crews knocked a hole through a brick wall at the back of the restaurant, making room for a chef's station right next to the kitchen. Finishing touches happen here, the last stop before frst bite. In this photo executive chef Kevin Ashworth tops off a dish. drink MilkWood By Anne Marshall Photos by Chris Witzke 316 W. Main St. 584-6455 Open Tuesday through Sunday evenings. Dinner service starts at 5:30 p.m. W hen you descend into MilkWood, located in the basement of Actors Teatre, comfort presents itself in the dark wood trim, a warm orange light emanating from behind red cushiony booths like the glow from a toaster. Families animate the low-lit space with lively conversation, no chiding for children curled up, sitting on one leg. Te tables are dressed simply, elegantly: sturdy, plain silverware, white napkins, no tablecloth. Te servers sport light-brown MilkWood T-shirts and jeans. It's a pleasant surprise for many guests. After all, this restaurant's a project of 40-year-old chef Edward Lee, the man behind one of Louisville's most revered high-end restaurants, 610 Magnolia. Not to mention that he's been a best-chef fnalist in the annual James Beard Foundation Awards for the last three years and has gained celebrity from multiple television appearances, including on Top Chef. "Obviously because of 610 Magnolia, everyone has a preconceived notion of what it is going to be. People call and think we are going to be like a $100-a-person restaurant," says Lee (pictured on this page). "I don't think chefs are one-dimensional people. Tere's a grungy side to me, and this is my expression of it." If this is "grungy," then Lee's "trashy" probably still registers as incredible. He and 610 Magnolia's former sous chef, 28-year-old Cincinnati native Kevin Ashworth, now the executive chef at MilkWood, collaborated on the menu that changes seasonally. It sticks with Lee's signature hybrid: Southern fare infused with his Korean heritage. "It's how I like to eat at home," he says. Another welcome revelation for MilkWood customers is the price. If one resists ordering from a quality selection of beers, wine and tempting cocktails, the bill won't sting. Entrées range from $15 to $28. A burger will cost you $12. Especially during Actors Teatre season (September through April), reservations are recommended. Crowds tend to pack in before shows. Lee chose the name after his favorite Dylan Tomas play, Under Milk Wood. With the cozy imagery of the root words — milk and wood — the name stuck, a natural ft. "At 610 we're trying to impress you," Lee says. "Here, it's not so much about impressing. We just want you to have a good time." 68 LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 10.13