Louisville Magazine

AUG 2015

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

Issue link: https://loumag.epubxp.com/i/544853

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Page 105 of 140

LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 8.15 103 Because a Sullivan University graduate probably made the last meal you had in town. b "Whooooeeee!" a guy yells, removing a hot pan from the oven. Another man pours white wine from a bottle into a sauce on the range, and the pan fames and sizzles. Pockets of smells — sautéed onions, roasted garlic, orange rinds, cognac, rack of lamb — fow throughout the room and blend together. Knives hit cutting boards. Wooden spoons scrape the edges of pans. Pots clank. Pans clink. "Two minutes!" chef David Moeller says to his advanced culinary techniques class, whose members are performing a "practical," or test. Te task: Come up with a sauce and give it certain characteristics to make it pair with a protein, starch and garnish. It's early July and Moeller is grading written exams at a table at the front of a long and narrow stainless-steel-coated kitchen at Sullivan University. Te 48-year-old wears a white foot-tall toque over his short blond hair and a white chef 's coat. Some students say Moeller is the toughest grader in the school's culinary program. It's not that he appears intimidating or cold; he's just the last one to teach these students before they go to work in real kitchens. "Hot! Hot! Hot pan!" a woman yells. "Whooooeeee!" Tammy Freitas speedily plates pork tenderloin with steamed asparagus, rice pilaf and an Italian reduction sauce. A student 2 By Mary Chellis Austin Photos by Chris Witzke next to her presses his lips frmly together as he plates a fatty piece of steak with roasted beets and parsnips and a dark brown sauce. He uses a folded napkin to wipe away any imperfections. To his right, a young woman fnishes a Mediterranean-style dish with lamb, Brussels sprouts and turmeric-tinged rice. Freitas, a 40-year-old from Miami, moved to Louisville 11 years ago with a degree in religious studies and a job at a church. But she always wanted to be a chef. One day, she drove by Sullivan University, pulled into the parking lot and talked to the staf. "I was hooked," she says. Tis quarter of classes is her last before she does her required internship. After that, she plans to move back to south Florida and open a fne-dining or Latin restaurant. "Who are we waiting on? Everybody have their food up?" Moeller asks. Each of the students' creations sits on a white ceramic plate under hanging domed heat lamps. Moeller starts down the line, tasting each dish and giving chemistry and physics lessons along the way. "Remember your properties: color, luster, texture, viscosity, opacity and taste." "Be careful with just chopping garlic and putting it in a sauté pan because if you brown it, it's gonna be bitter." "Typically, with a duck breast, you're gonna want to sear it, get Spice-rubbed sea bass with Bengalese cabbage and grapefruit-tarragon beurre blanc This page to 108: a sampling of seafood dishes prepared by Sullivan students in an advanced- techniques class.

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