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LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 12.14 75 SUNSHINE FOR GRAY SKIES othing fghts of the bleak midwinter blues like the annual arrival of Florida grapefruit in local stores. I feel extra heapings of happiness when I spot the frst return of Paul's Pink Grapefruit Juice to the shelves at Paul's Fruit Market. To those who claim not to like fresh grapefruit juice because it's "too bitter" or "too sour," or because it remains associat- ed with 1960s-era lady diet fads, why for heaven's sake have you all along been drinking the mass-produced stuf made from frozen concentrate, originating from someplace far, far away? If you don't believe that the real thing is sweet, try a little metric conversion. In an eight-ounce glass of fresh-squeezed pink grapefruit juice, there are 18 grams of sugar. People! Tat equals four and a half teaspoons. Tink about it. Or maybe you shouldn't. In truth, it's a little astonishing to discover how many Yankees don't know that winter is the harvest season for citrus. According to the University of Florida Extension Service, grapefruit are not considered to be "of good eating quality" each year until after Tanks- giving. Te harvest season can last through May, but the prime months for intense favor and color are December through February. Years ago, I discovered this one summer day when I asked my favorite produce guy, Jimbo (at the Paul's in Chenoweth Square), "Hey, man — what the heck happened to my pink grapefruit juice?" Jimbo patiently explained about the growing and harvest seasons. Florida grapefruits have a thinner rind than those from California and elsewhere, and they are sweeter, juicier and less pulpy than other varieties. Tis is why, on the label of Paul's juice, it says, "Squeezed Fresh Daily." You can smell the bright and glorious aroma the second you walk into the place. Also on the label it says, "WARNING: Tis product has not been pasteurized and therefore may contain harmful bacteria." I have found that almost every foodstuf that carries that particular warning tastes better than the food- stufs that do not carry it. Let's just skim right over the other grapefruit juice warnings that pertain to its interaction with at least 85 diferent prescription drugs, including Viagra (sorry, guys), so that we can get to the meat of the matter: grapefruit fesh — specifcally, how refreshing it is in salads and relishes. It's such a wondrous contrast to the heavy main dishes that tend to dominate winter fare. It's tempting to say that if you haven't tried it, just substitute grapefruit for the citrus ingre- dient in any salad — fruit or vegetable-based — and you'll end up as pleased as you might be with a whole new recipe. Grapefruit sections are especially favor-enhancing in spicy salsas. But my favorite way to have it is based on an old Alice Waters recipe from the legendary Chez Panisse Restaurant in Berkeley, Califor- nia. Te original was garnished with chervil, but you can play around with a variety of fresh herbs to give the salad a diferent favor em- phasis. My favorite is a combination of cilantro and Italian parsley. Note that the recipe calls for Hass avocados, which are grown in California, not Florida. In this respect, they are opposite grapefruit: California avocados have much richer texture and favor than their Florida cousins. Maybe this is why they work particularly well in this salad: contrast! You might experiment with the salad ingre- dients in other ways, too, such as by topping them with aged goat cheese shavings or substi- tuting red onion for the shallot. One thing I do not recommend, however: While many pre-cut fruits available in grocery stores are perfectly serviceable, grapefruit slices begin to lose their character, their vibrancy and especially their juiciness within minutes of being sliced away from their skin. Tey're not nearly as difcult to peel as many other forms of citrus, so take the few extra minutes to do so. It's worth it. Pink Grapefruit and Avocado Salad 2 medium ruby grapefruits 1 teaspoon fnely grated grapefruit zest 1 medium shallot, minced 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 2 medium Hass avocados, sliced ¼ inch thick Sea salt to taste 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Freshly ground pepper Freshly chopped chervil for garnish Using a sharp knife, cut the skin and all of the white pith of the grapefruits. Working over a bowl, cut in between the membranes to release the sections. Squeeze the juice from the membranes into the bowl. Transfer two tablespoons of the juice to another bowl. Add the zest, shallot and vinegar and let the dressing stand for 10 minutes. Season the avocado with salt and arrange on plates with the grapefruit sections. Stir the oil into the dressing; season with salt and pepper. Drizzle onto the grapefruit and avocado, garnish with the chervil and serve. Serves four. By Mary Welp Illustration by Carrie Neumayer Add some summer to your winter with this grapefruit and avocado salad. N