Louisville Magazine

FEB 2014

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

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THE SPREAD food drink Les fromages ($14) change often, but are always from France. This plate includes a cow's Roquefort blue, a goat cream "stink" cheese, as Genoud describes it, and a cow's triple-crème. He says that, unlike Brie, which is a double-crème, this cheese is "like butter." Counterclockwise from far left: apple and pine nut tart ($8); warm tomato and goat cheese tart with basil ($11); fried zucchini, eggplant and calamari with red pepper aioli ($10) and mussels marinieres ($8). "Its not complicated. It's comfort food. Franch comfort food," Genoud says. When his 80-year-old mother visited from France last Thanksgiving, she tasted the whole menu, which includes some of her own recipes. "She made a few comments, you know, as a mom should do," he says. The biggest difference she noticed was the garlic, Genoud says, which is much stronger in France. Chef de cuisine Edoardo Bacci grew up in Italy but came here in his teens. "I went back there to get a job, cook, get a little bit of exposure at different restaurants," he says. "I decided to come back a year later; you know, you meet the wife — 'Oh, sure, I'll move back.'" Bacci's côte de porc au miel de lavande (honey lavender glazed prime pork chop served with gratin dauphinois and ratatouille, $22), has become a restaurant staple. 66 LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 2.14 All of the breads and most desserts are made fresh by local chocolate and pastry maker Ghyslain. (The rest are made in-house.) "Most desserts are made specially for me," Genoud says. He met Ghyslain owner Ghyslain Maurais, originally from Québec, while working at the Brown Hotel.

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