Louisville Magazine

JUN 2019

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

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LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 6.19 65 D'S e layer of mozzarella on a pizza from Annie's is so thick you might mistake it for plain cheese — the mozz conceals all toppings. Melted to perfection and ever-so-slightly charred, it cascades down the sides as you lift a slice, like the best pizza you've ever seen on Saturday-morning cartoons. On a Wednesday evening in late April, a steady stream of customers pours in, ordering pies and •lling the small dining area, where some kids hover around the claw machine. Annie's Pizza opened on Portland Avenue in the late '80s, taking over the space that had been Brady's Restaurant, a greasy spoon serving chili and cheeseburgers. "I can't speci•cally tell you why (my parents) chose that area," says current owner Wayne Mayberry, whose mom and dad started Annie's in Portland, the west Louisville neighborhood with the Ohio River as its northern border. "I think they saw a need down there and saw an opportunity and snatched it." ose 30 years have given Annie's some well-earned battle scars. e red vinyl on the awning over the door is a sun-faded pink. e linoleum squares on the ‹oor are mismatched and chipped. Mayberry is in the process of renovating the space, hopeful the pizzeria can continue to serve the neighborhood for more decades to come. "We've been there long enough now that we've had kids grow up on Annie's pizza. Now they're adults," he says. "I think that in itself is an accomplishment for a neighborhood pizzeria." Just •ve years ago, Annie's was one of four food options in the Portland area — the other three being Subway, McDonald's and Dairy Queen. But that's changing. e growth started in 2014: McQuixote Books & Cošee opened in part of the former Tim Faulkner Gallery, serving sandwiches named after books (e.g., the Painted Bird, with turkey, apple butter, rosemary olive oil and Cheddar). When the Table opened in November 2015 with a "pay what you can" or "work for your plate" business model, it garnered a heaping helping of news coverage and positive reviews. Using in- season local ingredients, the menu includes a sandwich of tangy pulled ham and stringy mozzarella, and a salad with strawberries, chia seeds and asparagus. e initial excitement about and continued success of the Table (try eating there without a wait) paved the way for the Portland food scene of the past couple years. Cup of Joy, a cošee shop with red velvet cupcakes and savory, ‹aky puš pastries, opened in summer 2016. (is April, a large construction sign announced a wedding reception at Cup of Joy, inviting anyone in the neighborhood to attend, dinner provided.) Farm to Fork and Porkland BBQ opened in 2018. Mamas Kitchen is now open and serving carryout soul food: over•lled plates of golden fried chicken, squares of dense pound cake and tangy greens. Galan's Meat Market is like a miniature grocery store, selling canned vegetables, and fresh and non-standard cuts of meat like whole pig's feet, plus deli sandwiches. And it's not just restaurants changing the face of the Portland food-beverage scene. Heine Brothers' has moved its headquarters to the neighborhood. Against the Grain opened its main bottling and canning facility in a nondescript warehouse on Northwestern Parkway in the neighborhood. Co-owner Adam Watson says he hopes Against the Grain eventually puts in a taproom. "Every time we get enough money to do that," he says, "it seems more sensible to just put in another tank to make more beer." e small local Porkland BBQ owners Inga and Shawn Arvin

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