Louisville Magazine

MAY 2019

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

Issue link: https://loumag.epubxp.com/i/1108942

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Page 74 of 112

72 LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 5.19 Boujie Biscuit Boujie Biscuit has me locked in a high-stakes debate with myself. Hot chicken with sausage gravy on a biscuit? Peaches cooked in a buttery brown sugar sauce, on a biscuit? Even, despite the early hour, an Angus burger with spicy mac and cheese — you guessed it — on a biscuit? Finally, I decide to forego the more ambitious parts of the menu and try something simple: the Gravy Train, which is a biscuit topped with chunky sausage gravy. You've got to nail the fundamentals, right? Well, damn, does Boujie Biscuit nail them. I grew up in southeastern Kentucky, Appalachian Kentucky, lard-and-cast-iron Kentucky; I know my biscuits. And I have never, ever had a biscuit like this. A big, buttery, flaky sucker — so devoid of the dryness that plagues lesser biscuits I almost want to call it juicy — sitting in a box, half submerged in rich, creamy gravy. How am I supposed to accomplish anything after a breakfast so hearty and knockout delicious? Oh, who cares? All that matters is that last bit of gravy I'm about to sop up with my final bite of biscuit. 1813 Frankfort Ave. — DJ 80/20 @ Kaelin's If you don't already know the Kaelin's story, let me sum it up for you: The burger joint first opened at this Highlands spot in 1934. It claims to have been the first place to ever put cheese on a burger. (We'll give it that.) After closing in 2009, it's back and under new ownership, with a reconfigured, cheery, family-friendly space (including an ice cream parlor!), and fat, juicy burgers that hit craving spots that only cheeseburgers seem to touch. Which is why this may surprise: Don't leave without trying the shrimp and grits. 1801 Newburg Road — MCN V-Grits & False Idol Beneath a mural of a goat draped in golden flowers — a look that's part Brothers Grimm, part fairy dreamscape — syrup cascades from my toddler's chin and latches to his shirt as he tips a vegan waffle into his mouth for another eager bite. Next to him, my daughter dredges her fingers through coconut whipped cream. I'm barely more polite, the way I'm shoveling vegan "cheese" grits, tofu and coconut "bacon" into my mouth. Chef Kristina Addington, who started her Southern-vegan menu as a food truck, expertly whips plant-based ingredients into tempting, flavorful dishes that can teeter on the edge of inducing gluttony. Brunch offers breakfast tacos, biscuits and gravy, and flashy, colorful parfaits. Recently, a kiwi-berry-chia parfait practically winked from its glass cup, all dressed in lime green and lavender layers. The kicker: It is good for you. Chia seeds, cucumber, blueberries and spinach were all pureed into this dandy morning meal. One more kicker: mimosas or beer to wash it all down, thanks to False Idol Independent Brewers, housed just to the right of the kitchen. 1025 Barret Ave. — AM Eatz Vietnamese Eatz is the kind of place you'd diplomatically call "intimate." But the flavors this casual spot concocts dwarf its modest square footage. Refreshing spring rolls take a dip in a peanut sauce I would, in private circumstances, pour all over my face. Perfectly fried eggs — crispy, sturdy bottoms; jiggly, golden yolks — ooze into a bánh mì with just enough savory pâté to balance the julienned carrots. And then there's the main event, brought out without any of the pageantry it deserves: pho. Specifically, the "combination pho," with rice noodles, onions and more parts of beef (meatballs, slices, tendon, tripe) than you've ever had in one meal. The Thai basil, jalapeño slices, lime, bean sprouts and cilantro that come on the side make welcome additions to a beef bone broth that, according to the menu, has simmered for 30 hours. Do yourself a favor and add bone marrow. Heads will turn at the gigantic bone sticking out of your bowl. 974 Barret Ave. — DJ

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