Louisville Magazine

MAY 2019

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

Issue link: https://loumag.epubxp.com/i/1108942

Contents of this Issue


Page 65 of 112

LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 5.19 63 Aji Sushi and Asian Cuisine The Sunset Roll has the largest chunk of salmon I've ever eaten in a sushi roll. It takes up at least a full three-fourths of the inner seaweed loop, the triangle of avocado tiny by comparison. Bright-orange roe sticks neatly to the rice like a wig. Decked out with cherry-blossom room dividers and a wooden dragon's head above the hostess stand, Aji Sushi and Asian Cuisine is the only spot for nigiri, ramen, pad thai — anything beyond standard Chinese takeout — between Fern Valley Road and I-265. The egg rolls are skinny, the right amount of greasy. An earthy broth swirls with noodles and pork belly in the ramen. Just don't blink or you'll miss it; they haven't installed a street-side sign yet. 5610 Outer Loop — JK El Rinconcito When the majority of the five-star reviews require Google Translate, you know you're in for an authentic treat. While Peruvian chicken is the star at the easy- to-miss spot on Bardstown Road near the corner of Watterson Trail, it's the tostones — plantains sliced, smashed and twice-fried into something like a latke — that earn a best supporting role, especially when dunked in either of the creamy, garlicky sauces. Ask for extra sauce for the inevitable mounds of leftovers, which hold up after spending a day in the fridge. 4806 Bardstown Road — MCN Taylor's Cajun Meat Co. Ellis Taylor grew up in the corner meat market his grandfather operated in tiny Maurice, Louisiana, learning how to make sausages, gumbo and étouffée from scratch. Taylor, who moved to this area from just outside Lafayette, Louisiana, now has his own specialty market. And this spring, he's putting the boil to fresh crawdads every Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Best hurry: The little red crustaceans are expected to sink back into the mud and out of season sometime in June or July. Taylor has perfected his own dry rub (including the requisite "secret ingredients") and will doctor the spice level by request when you order. Three pounds of the freshwater delicacy are served in a teeming heap on a platter (with corn on the cob and potatoes) for $25, five pounds for $38. The 43-year-old picked New Albany for his business because the action has been cornered, so to speak, back home. "There are good meat markets on every corner," he says, "and one is best for its sausage, another for its étouffée , and so on. Cajuns can cook!" (His wife Serena also works at the market, and they discovered this area after her sister and her husband made the move here.) Driving every Wednesday evening to meet a seafood wholesaler he knows in Memphis (Tennessee, not Indiana), Taylor picks up crawdads and shrimp caught that morning. It's just hours from pond to pot, and the lobster-like succulence of the crawfish, as well as the sweetness of the jumbo shrimp, will keep you peeling until the last tail is dipped in zippy house-made sauce. 3306 Plaza Drive, New Albany — Bruce Allar Soul Food Dining Maybe it's buttermilk. Maybe it's the gorgeous, sinful magic of lard. Whatever it is, the cornbread here squishes and delights like a pudding, none of that standard crumby, cake-y fare here. Chubby, cupcake- sized and golden, the cornbread's function may be to sop up puddles on a plate, but, please, take one bite all by its lonesome, in the bare. Appreciate and savor, then put it to work. The sweet potatoes taste like Thanksgiving pie and tearing into the chicken wings is a pleasure. She isn't much to look at from the outside — a squat building with a black awning and barred windows in the industrial badlands of Poplar Level Road. But you can taste the care and time put into this soul food. And that cornbread? Heavenly. 4900 Poplar Level Road — Anne Marshall

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of Louisville Magazine - MAY 2019