Louisville Magazine

FEB 2019

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

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LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 2.19 89 Kinilaw (coconut citrus, chile and toasted peanuts) and the Double Dare cocktail. Ostra's cocktails are named after old Nickelodeon cartoons like velvet-cushioned benches and colorful throw pillows. It's all DIY, including the striking, jagged-edged marble and granite tabletops. "e tables are dope," says Burress, who mentions how they procured the marble slabs from a company that was going out of business. "I didn't know what I was going to do with it," he says, "but I knew it wasn't garbage." My husband and I are seated at a marble two-top. e dining room is already buzzing at 6 p.m., and the dozen or so seats at the bar are all taken. Our server recommends trying one of the restaurant's oyster dishes, which include a version served with truffle ponzu, and one with kale goat cheese and jalapeño Mornay. She's enthusiastic about the menu, saying things like, "Cultivating oysters actually cleans the ocean." We decide to forgo the oysters until our next visit and instead start with the kinilaw, a Filipino-style ceviche prepared with coconut citrus, chile and toasted peanuts, and the pickled deviled eggs with smoked salmon and candied chicken skin. Both dishes are equally stunning and delicious, and they make for a light but flavorful start to our tapas-style dinner. Next, we share rabbit empanadas and wild boar gemelli, hearty items that are perfect counterpoints to our starters. e golden empanadas are flaky and filling, and the gemelli pasta is decadent, made with aged Gouda and cream. e pasta comes with grilled balsamic bread that we finish despite being uncomfortably full. Our original plan was to end the meal with cricket brownies, but instead we order them to go. e generous portion includes four slices made with cricket flour and bananas. Two are topped with candied crickets, two with candied mealworms. Back home, our kids are thrilled when we offer to share dessert. eir demeanor changes when we open the box. Dressed in footie pajamas with a cupcake print, our five-year-old daughter declines, despite a serious sweet tooth. Our eight-year-old considers it a dare. After counting down — three, two, one — he takes a bite of the mealworm. "It's good!" he says. "It tastes… nutty." When tasked with tasting the can- died cricket, however, he pauses, then says, "It's got a face." Once all insect evidence is removed, the four of us enjoy the rich brownies topped with shredded coconut and a drizzle of icing. Burress acknowledges that insects don't necessarily taste great — "You're not going to get a mouthwatering effect from eating a bowl of bugs" he says — so you have to get creative in the preparation. "More people eat bugs globally than don't, and I think we should all start to evolve on that," he says. "I'm not saying to replace all your protein meals with bugs, but incorporate some bugs into your life." Cricket brownies are a good place to start.

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