Louisville Magazine

JAN 2019

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

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LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 1.19 71 glow at night. A spacious porch spans the restaurant, providing additional seating during warmer months. It's just before 6 p.m. on a recent frigid Friday, and the crisp white and mint-green dining room already is bustling. My party of four is seated in a comfortable booth, and our server immediately furnishes our two kids with paper and an array of colored pencils. ey get right to coloring as we peruse an impressive list of wine, beer and cocktails, including a Manhattan called the Mabel. We scarf down a complimentary plate of sharp Cheddar "Lonzetta" crackers, named after a woman who worked for Hol- land's grandmother for many years. Based on Lonzetta's own recipe, the crackers are a flavorful starter, perfectly crisp and buttery. Next, we try the "sharing" nachos, a heap of tortilla chips topped with a rich, Mornay-like sauce, Cotija cheese, pickled cabbage, guacamole and jalapeños. My children attack the mound, clearing the plate before our entrées arrive. For a main course, I choose the fish of the day: mahi mahi served with couscous, olives, fennel, peppers and saffron sauce. e fish is delicate and flaky, but it's the flavorful accompaniments — es- pecially the silky saffron sauce — that make the dish. My husband opts for the burger, as usual, and my son's interest is piqued. Soon, he's also enjoying the burger, which is made with local beef and topped with onion jam and sweet pickles. e boy gives it an em- phatic thumbs-up as he devours what has become his half, leaving his five-year-old sister to tackle an adult-size portion of fettuccine Bolognese on her own. She loves the noodles but declares the dish a bit "too meaty." My adult palate disagrees, and I assist in clearing her plate. Phyllis Ward, you may like to know, still lives in the area after all these years. When she heard the Pine Room was being revived, she made reservations to dine with her husband on opening night. While there, the couple regaled staff and fellow diners with the story of their meeting at the old Pine Room back in 1971. Despite vast changes in both the menu and decor, Ward says there's a sense of cheerful camaraderie that harkens back to the original. Plus, the restaurant has live piano music two nights a week. "I'm so excited the Pine Room has been reborn, even though it's totally different," Ward says. "e original was darker and more casual. More like a piano bar. But what always struck me about it was the feeling of fellowship. I found that good sense of fellowship in the new Pine Room, too. People tend to talk back and forth be- tween tables, even though you don't know them. ey have really managed to re-create that feeling."

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