Louisville Magazine

SEP 2018

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

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LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 9.18 51 Country ham- wrapped scallops with pawpaw habañero butter at Seviche. About a decade ago, a farmer walked into chef Anthony Lamas' Bardstown Road restaurant, Seviche, with a pawpaw. Lamas has been hooked ever since. "I'm in love with them," he says. "Once I had it, I was like, 'Where have you been?'" Every year during pawpaw season (in Kentucky, typically end of August through September), he and his kitchen crew spend hours breaking down the green-skinned, mango-shaped fruits some call "Indiana bananas." A strainer separates out the seeds and skin, and the saved flesh from nearly 400 pounds of pawpaws goes into airtight containers in the freezer. "My cuisine (is) flavor by heritage but sourced by locality," Lamas says. "You see these Latin flavors but then you see sorghum, grits, pawpaws. What a perfect marriage to use this Southern ingredient in a way I would use a Latin tropical fruit." e flesh is used for a variety of dishes at Seviche, including ice cream and a pawpaw beurre blanc. Pawpaw preserves provide the sweet, custardy topping to a pecan-crusted Brie served with crackers. Lamas chops slightly under-ripe pawpaws into a salad. A papaw-habañero sauce accompanies a halibut filet. Pawpaw flan is a creamy concoction so good that the recipe appears in his cookbook, Southern Heat. "Here's this Latino chef introducing pawpaws to someone that's been born and raised in Kentucky and Indiana," Lamas says. Pawpaws can be eaten raw or made into a variety of products, including bread and wine. eir taste has been described as that of a mango or pineapple crossed with a banana, and some claim certain varieties conjure the flavor of a piña colada. George Washington, historians tell us, snacked on chilled pawpaw flesh. omas Jefferson had pawpaw seeds shipped to him at Monticello. In 1806, Lewis and Clark survived on pawpaws when they ran out of food during their Northwest Passage expedition. e Ohio Pawpaw

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