Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.
Issue link: http://loumag.epubxp.com/i/743286
ulgc.net LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 11.16 129 FOOD& DRINK and surrounded by strip malls that boast the regulars, like a physical-therapy office, Allstate insurance and Subway. I order far too much food: a steak taco, chicken sope, shrimp ceviche, esquite (Mexican corn) and a chicken gordita. My bill? Just over $18. The Lemus-Men- dez family opened Antojitos Byanca in the summer of 2015. You will often find sisters Liz and Ashley, both in their 20s, taking orders and making tortillas or other dishes. Liz tells me that she used to work in the Subway next door. Their mom, who emigrated from Mexico 24 years ago to follow her husband's job on horse farms, also worked at a Subway shop for several years. But last year the family decided to package their ener- gy and culinary talents into Antojitos Byanca, named for the youngest of the family's four daughters. (That's Byanca on the sign.) With no indoor seating, I carry my bas- kets of food to a picnic table shaded by a canopy flapping in the breeze. I dig into the esquite, a 16-ounce Styrofoam cup of delicious sweet corn kernels speckled with fiery chili powder and soothed by a generous glop of cheese and mayon- naise. (Never a mayo fan, I scoop that overboard.) The avocado-topped cevi- che is tart and packed with cilantro, just how I like it. Corn tortillas are warm and soft. Nothing on the table disappoints. A steady flow of customers, many of them Hispanic, keep the lunch rush bustling. As I leave, I'm not sure when I'll return; 20-plus miles is a long jaunt for tacos. But I have no doubt that Antojitos Byan- ca will linger in my memory and trigger a craving next time I find myself north of the Jefferson County border. — Anne Marshall