Louisville Magazine

JUL 2012

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

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plate of buttery, slightly gamy terrine came with grilled focaccia slices and a pile of pick- led ramps, each component so good I almost forgot to enjoy them in concert, which made them spectacular. Sheffield told me he and his partners want- ed a place where people could "come get a beer and a snack and see a band play, or come and have a three-course meal." While I can't speak to the beer and bands (my visits were limited to early dinners), I can say my own error was ordering a side of grilled broccoli ($7) with anchovies and almonds. Be warned: Individually, the sharable side dish was quite good, the broccoli nicely charred under a mound of toasted almonds, but the powerful anchovy flavor overwhelmed the rest of my main dish. Te hardwood-grilled skirt steak ($24) showed the kitchen's skill in handling hot surfaces. Te steak's sear was picture- perfect, and a glazing of bone-marrow but- ter added a bit of oleaginous goodness to the lean meat. After several sips of wine and wa- ter chased the anchovy taste from my palate, I also enjoyed some perfectly creamy polenta with goat cheese ($7), graced with a bracing bite of celery leaf. I particularly liked the upstairs, with sun- light falling through the tall old windows onto the parquet floor. On a (rare) cool sum- mer evening, be sure to dine on Decca's up- per deck, one of downtown's special treats, with views toward the Ohio River over the old storefronts and down into a spacious and sinuous landscaped patio. Hanging out above NuLu is a great way to get a sense of how vi- brant the area has become. On the upper deck, I enjoyed some Geor- gia quail ($13), the juicy little bird sporting a dark crust on top of a smooth pool of fen- nel purée, with a refreshing salad of citrus and shaved fennel on the side. I thought the sea- son's asparagus had been grilled well, like the broccoli, but found the buttery sabayon and Parmesan shavings a bit too rich for the tender spears. Although I spied what looked to be a gigantic bowl of house-made cavatelli ($16), I found the portions at Decca to be pleasantly appropriate, including a fist-sized mound of fresh pappardelle ($17). It was lightly yet meatily caressed by a lemony lamb sugo (sauce) spiced with mint and coriander. Tar- ragon and cilantro brightened white shrimp a la plancha ($19). My meals ended with a not-too-sweet but- termilk panna cotta ($9) and a devil's food cake ($9), which pitted a light and sweet chocolate mousse against the dark forces of rich chocolate cake and cocoa meringue puffs. Decca has more than I described, includ- ing two dining rooms, cocktails, a cellar, an outdoor stage, an art gallery and other things I haven't fully explored. "We wanted a creative place," Sheffield says, "a place that was a little different, that would encompass great music, great food — a space that people liked being in without knowing why." If You Go Decca, 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Kitchen and dining room open 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday (lounge from 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.); 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday (lounge from 4:30 p.m. to midnight). Picture perfect (clockwise from top): Decca's duck-liver terrine, with grilled focaccia, cherry mostarda and pickled vegetables; buttermilk panna cotta with strawberry rose gelée and pistachio shortbread; fresh pappardelle and Moroccan lamb sugo; and slow-braised beef cheek with horseradish crème fraîche. 7.12 LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE [87]

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