Louisville Magazine

DEC 2015

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

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68 LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 12.15 Maddio's fast-casual pizza franchise and, before that, was home to John Riley Auto Service, which had been on the block for 44 years. As an homage to the garage, the napkins are shop rags and the servers wear blue short-sleeve shop shirts with their names embroidered on the chest. Retro metal cafe chairs and white subway tiles amplify the chatter at the 12 or so tables. While growing up, Rosenberg says, his mom was the "microwave queen" and that, when KFC used to deliver, it was either fried chicken or pizza for dinner. "For me it was the opposite of most people — a home-cooked meal was a special occasion," he says. His frst job was fipping burgers at Hardee's. After his frst full-service restaurant gig, as a busboy at the Japanese steakhouse Shogun, Rosenberg went chasing his fashion-de- sign dream in New York. "It seems a little bit more glamorous than it actually is — kind of like cooking," he says. "I like the artistic aspects of both — thinking of new things and planning out what I'm going to do, as well as the construction element, the craft and technical part." Te fashion world was tough to break into, he says, but he landed apprentice- ships in some upscale-casual New York restaurants to make ends meet. "I slowly drifted away from fashion and found a home in restaurants. When you're with people for 14 hours a day, they become like a family to you," he says. He returned to Louisville in the early 2000s and worked in some of the city's best kitchens, including Seviche. In 2010 he opened the Highlands late-night pizza joint Papalinos — his nickname for his mom that's also tattooed on his arm. (Tough he still con- sults with the Papalinos owners, a couple years ago Rosenberg sold his share of the company, which now has one location, in Springhurst.) In the basement of the original Mussel and Burger Bar in Jefer- sontown, he opened the Place Downstairs (later called Cena, now closed). Continuing his self-made culinary education, Rosenberg rents a storage unit for what he says is his $25,000 cookbook collection, which he organizes somewhat like a bookstore — general cooking, Italian, Mexican and so on. "Right now I'm really into African infuences in food," he says. For $100 he recently bought Te NoMad Cookbook, written by the chefs at a New York restaurant where Rosenberg's best friend is the pastry chef. "I'll work here (at Fontleroy's) for 17 or 18 hours," he says, "and I'll go home and lie in bed and read cookbooks. I don't get enough cooking in my life." Fontleroy's chef/owner Allan Rosenberg sauces a dish. mynortondoctor.com

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