Louisville Magazine

MAR 2012

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

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[ Dine In ] Chowder for the Chill T >>By Mary Welp Photo by John Nation he Cook's Illustrated Cookbook is the kind of tome that Isaac Newton might have gone for, had he not been so busy conducting his research and sending threatening letters to Leibniz, arguing which of the two of them invented the notion of infinitesimal calculus. Indeed, the book is so heavy that it might have made the perfect object to drop from the window for that little gravity experiment. In other words, Cook's Illustrated applies the scientific method in the kitchen. And I have to say that I have never come across a more useful resource book than the volume released this winter of "2,000 recipes from 20 years of America's most trusted food magazine." Te chefs in the CI kitchen methodically hypothesize, observe, experiment and draw conclusions. Take, for instance, what they do with corn chowder, the discussion of which comes near the end of the section on soups. First they present a recipe for Classic Corn Chowder, followed by one for Modern Corn Chowder. I'll bet I don't have to tell you which one has more dairy fat in it — and therefore which one is more delicious, though neither is anything to dismiss with a kernel of corn. Te modern chowder, in fact, is a fussier cure for the common cold of windy late-winter weather. [32] LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 3.12 Here's a filling and tasty recipe that involves "juicing" the corn "milk" out of eight ears of corn by using a vegetable peeler on naked corn cobs and then squeezing the yield through a clean kitchen towel. NO thank ya! I'll take my milk from a cow. On the other hand, the modern version calls for bacon slices rather than the classic's salt pork (which is not smoked and which you are chastened to keep distinct from fatback, aka pure fat). Having tried the recipe both ways — as well as with country ham — I have concluded that high-quality bacon is the best choice. So I've imported that one ingredient from the modern into the classic.

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