Louisville Magazine

MAR 2012

Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.

Issue link: http://loumag.epubxp.com/i/56636

Contents of this Issue


Page 16 of 116

[ Circuit ] I Polished for the Big Apple Varanese John [`]^%gof]j$ NYjYf]k] standards set by hundreds of peers who've preceded him. But here's the hardest part: Te Beard House does not have a truly professional kitchen. It's the modestly remodeled residential kitchen Beard used until his 1985 death. And it has issues. Its hood vent draws air with asthmatic inefficiency; the tile floor is cracked; equipment is lacking, broken or missing; and the space is challengingly small for feeding 80 guests efficiently. Cooking there is like staging a boxing match in a broom closet. It's also costly. Louisville restaurateurs we interviewed have spent as little as $6,000 to as much as $22,000 on food and drinks for the meal they donate, plus travel expenses. Tere's also the endless planning, list-making and packing that, for Varanese, will commence about March 10. "I don't want to leave anything to chance, so we're basically taking all the food from here and driving it to New York," the 38-year-old says. For his six-course Beard House feast, Varanese has planned dishes such as fried quail with toasted mustard seed emulsion, Capriole Farmstead goat-cheese cake and grilled bison ribeye with marrow pudding and herb compound butter. "I've already had a couple of bad dreams about it," Varanese says. "Tere's just a ton of stuff to think about." measure of fame it affords but partly in honor of Beard, who was a caterer, instructor, cookbook author and TV food personality. In 1987, his home was converted into a "performance space" where visiting chefs, at the Beard Foundation's invitation, produce as many as five dinners per week, typically representative of what they cook in their own restaurants. Here are 12 Louisville chefs who have gone before Varanese to cook at the James Beard House. — Steve Coomes American chefs have endured this self-induced torture willingly for 25 years, mostly for the t's understandable that Varanese chef-owner John Varanese is nervous about cooking at Man- hattan's James Beard House on March 13. He knows there's a lot on the line: national recogni- tion, premium exposure to food media and New York's culinary cognoscenti, living up to the Shawn Ward executive chef, BY[c >jq k >af\ Y F]o Qgjc [`]^ qgm cfgo Yf\ mk] `ak cal[`]f lg \g qgmj hj]h ogjc& LjYn]daf_ l`jgm_` l`] [alq$ hYfa[caf_ Yf\ ogf\]jaf_ a^ qgm dd _]l o`]j] qgm f]]\ lg Z] gf lae]& Anoosh Shariat j]klYmjYfl [gfkmdlYfl$ ^gje]j [`]^%gof]j$ K`YjaYl k Anthony Lamas [`]^%gof]j$ K]na[`] gg\ F]logjc Y^l]j al oYk gn]j& C]flm[cq%Yj]Y [gmfljq `Yek Yf\ _gYl [`]]k]k [14] LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 3.12 AjYfaYf [YnaYj$ [Yj\Yege$ jgk] oYl]j$ gjYf_] Zdgkkge Yf\ kY^^jgf Kathy Cary [`]^%gof]j$ Daddq k2 9 C]flm[cq :akljg =ph][l al lg Z] Y da^]%[`Yf_af_ ]ph]ja]f[] l`Yl oadd eYc] qgm Z]da]n] lglYddq af l`] [Yj]]j qgm [`gk]& L`] hj]h& A ogc] mh l`] klY^^ Yl -2+( af l`] egjfaf_$ Yf\ ^jge l`]j] qgm hj]h oal` fg Zj]Yck af Y cal[`]f o`]j] qgm j] dal]jYddq kl]hhaf_ gf ]Y[` gl`]j k lg]k& Qgm ÚfYddq k]f\ l`] \]kk]jlk gml$ Yf\ qgm klYjl lg _]l Y dalld] l]Yjq%]q]\ Z][Ymk] qgm j] kg ]p`Ymkl]\& 9f\ l`]f qgm `]Yj l`] YhhdYmk] egnaf_ ^jge jgge lg jgge& [`ahgld] [`ad]k$ ko]]l [gjf$ ZgmjZgf `Yf\ha[c]\ oYl]j[j]kk$ `Yf\% ha[c]\ Zdm]Z]jja]k$ =`jeYff k nYfaddY a[] [j]Ye ingredient Key Best memory challenge Biggest Advice

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