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Issue link: https://loumag.epubxp.com/i/53439
On a lunch visit, I enjoyed another pretzel roll and more Marksbury products, the roll on my chicken sandwich ($8.50) serving as a sturdy platform for a tenderly roasted breast made savory with a slice of country ham and spicy-tart with a chiffonade of fresh arugula. Unfortunately, a gamy and salty Barren County Bleu cheese, from Kenny's Farmhouse in Austin, Ky., overpowered the chicken salad ($7.50), and while the pickled peppers on my meatball hero sandwich ($8.50) were tart, the mushy meatballs were salty and covered in a too-sweet sauce. Myers' skills (and growing connections to local suppliers) are most evident Tursday through Saturday evenings with small plates. Te charcuterie ($9) featured rolls of Marksbury mortadella slices — not as smooth as their Italian counterparts but just as delicious — plus mild country ham prosciutto, along with macerated cherries, candied nuts, crisp house-made brioche toast made by pastry chef Loryn Kipp, and a selection of spicy mustards. Roasted Brussels sprouts ($6) were soft and salted with a reasonable amount of the aforementioned Kenny's Bleu. A winter salad strove mightily to bring freshness to the cold season, but the delicate squash rounds and tender Bibb lettuce could have used another element of crunch coupled with the tart vinaigrette. Te small-plate champ on my evening visit was an exquisitely baked pot of macaroni and smoked cipollini onions ($8), a fabulous combination of breadcrumbs, baked cheese crust, smoke, sweetness, meaty mushrooms, salt and just the right touch of oil. A chilled chocolate mousse ($4) topped with coffee crumble was a rich ending. Initially, the cafe changed its menu every week before settling on the one I sampled over the winter. Tis spring, Myers said, offerings will change "biweekly or monthly" because "people should be able to tell their friends about something they liked, or maybe have something twice." Myers told me at the time of my visits that, as a newcomer, he was "still relying on Lexington" for food but said he was excited about the local farmers he's already met and is happy to be located within range of even more products. "I plan on trying to develop as many relationships this winter as possible, getting to know as many farmers as I can," he said. Lake, for his part, is looking forward to that. "If you're off the beaten path," he said, "you have to create something that's a destination." Q 2.12 LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE [83] If You Go Anchorage Cafe, 11505 Park Road, 708-1880. Winter hours are 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Wednesday, 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Thursday and Friday, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday and 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. Small plates 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. Taste tour: The Anchorage Cafe's cooked-to-order egg sandwich (top) on a pretzel roll, along with a parsnip-carrot medley, country-ham prosciutto, candied pecans, brioche and chicken biscuit with spicy mustard.