Louisville Magazine is Louisville's city magazine, covering Louisville people, lifestyles, politics, sports, restaurants, entertainment and homes. Includes a monthly calendar of events.
Issue link: https://loumag.epubxp.com/i/197412
THE SPREAD food & drink The crunchy kettle chips ($9) drown in melted and gooey Ñ what kind of cheese is that? ÒHonestly, man, itÕs just American cheese and heavy cream,Ó says DeVault, the chef. Bacon and scallions, too. ÒSimple,Ó he says. ÒSomething to eat when youÕre drinking.Ó Speaking of bacon: One time, DeVault served a baconfocused, fve-course wine dinner. The salad came in a basket made of bacon. DeVault is from Lancaster, in southeast Ohio, and he came to Louisville about a decade ago to go to Sullivan University. In town, heÕs worked at CaptainÕs Quarters, Martini Italian Bistro, CorbettÕs and MitchellÕs Fish Market. ÒWhy do I cook? Nobody has ever asked me that question,Ó he says. ÒItÕs just something IÕve always been good at. Growing up, I did a lot of cooking with my mom. She made comfort meals Ñ lasagna, mashed potatoes.Ó His Brix menu includes a pork chop with potato hash ($19, pictured left) and blackened scallops with baconParmesan grits and fried tortilla strips ($16, pictured right). HereÕs how DeVault describes the meatball Bolognese ($17): ÒThe meatballs Ñ well, we cut a lot of our own flets. And the bonein pork chop, sometimes we get a weird cut. So the meatballs are basically flet scraps, meat scraps that we grind ourselves.Ó Crushed red pepper adds heat. 13 2 LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE 11.13